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May 28, 2008. At 6am we set out from Sangha. |
We wander south-east along the escarpment... |
...and then descend. |
Small cliff dwellings (Tellem houses)... |
...can be seen along the way. |
The gorge opens up and we have our first view of the sandy flat lowland.
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Further on as we descend the rocky path... |
...our first glimpse of Ireli. |
The drop of elevation from the upper escarpment to the lowland approx. 300 to 500m. |
Wooden calabashes are used to store the dead women hair and pottery for the man hair. |
Dogon houses were doted along the bottom of the cliff. |
An example how the houses are supported. |
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These houses are occupied by Dogons. |
It is the settlement called IRELI. |
We are able to wander among the houses freely. |
One of Ireli's Togina's (meeting place). |
A game played by the locals. |
Painting depicting Dogon beliefs and animals which once roamed the area.
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As we make our way along the cliff we get a closer look at the Tellem houses (cliff dwellings). |
The Tellem people used to occupy this area prior to the Dogon people.
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The cliff dwelling no longer are occupied, but are used by the Dogon people as tombs to bury the dead. |
Each symbol painted on the outside of the Togina has a special meaning.
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Ropes made from the bark of the Baobab tree can be seen hanging down from the cliff dwellings/tombs. |
Dogon people use the leaves for sauces, the fruit for monkeys and brewing beer and the bark to make rope. |
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Part of the Ireli cliff dwellings. |
A boy carrying water to his house. |
We expected a few cliff dwellings,... |
...but there are hundreds. |
More buildings depicting Dogon paintings. |
The Dogon villages at the base of those cliff dwellings consists of the ... |
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...usual fetish area and Togina (meeting area). |
Some cliff dwellings are so far up the cliff, that it is hard to imagine... |
...how anyone could get there, let alone hosting up building supplies.
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Half way between Ireli and Banani lays the settlement Peque.
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We walk along sandy tracks in the lowland. |
Passing the Tellem cliff dwellings of Peque. |
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The Dogon Village of BANANI. |
Unique wooden doors representing maybe breasts? |
Banani's Tellem cliff dwellings. |
The circular or square small mud huts with straw roofs (witches hats we called them). |
Nicely decorated wooden doors. |
More cliff dwellings/tombs of Banani. |
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A good example of traditional Dogon houses. |
From the lowland we scramble up the escapement to Gogoli.
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On the way up we have good views of nearby cliff dwellings.
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At the top we are rewarded with a panoramic view of the area.
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The lowland. |
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We pass through the Bongo, a 90m natural tunnel. |
Local children found us and... |
...attach themselves to Mike. |
May 30, 2008. A straight line from Douentza to TIMBUKTU on the GPS.
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At 5:30am the first light appears on the horizon and we turn from the main highway onto the Timbuktu road. |
195km from Douentza to the Timbuktu ferry. |
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Sand and more sand. |
At the ferry port to cross the Niger River. |
Waiting in a Bedouin tent for 2 1/2 hours for the ferry...
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...to make it to our side of the river. |
We made it to legendary Timbuktu. |
It had taken us 7 1/2 hours to the ferry. |
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The all important Timbuktu stamp in our passports. |
A quick visit to the Dyingerey Ber Mosque. |
It is the oldest mosque in West Africa... |
...dating as early as the 14th century. |
The outer walls of the mosque. |
A massive dust/sand storm approaches. |
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It is tough to describe how intimidating the approach of the storm is. |
Kilometer long wall of billowing clouds moving quickly,... |
...engulfing everything in its path. |
May 31, 2008. This is why everyone hate this road, washboard for kilometers... |
...& kilometers, rattling every piece of bolt and part on the motorcycle loose. |
Then there is of course the sand... |
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...deep sand... |
...and with the start of the rainy season... |
..a dozen of these water crossings. |
As it only takes us 6 hours on the return we have some daylight left and ... |
...decide to head toward Hombori, further east in Mali.
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An 80km stretch between Douentza and Hombori is called Mali's monument valley. |
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Sandstone buttresses, or mesas, dot the desert landscape.
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One would think we are in Arizona. |
In the distance we can see the LA MAIN DE FATIMA... |
...or in English THE HAND OF FATIMA. Here we were stranded for a while as Mike's motorcycle did not want to start. |
June 01, 2008. By miracle we made it back to Douentza were we are unable to start the bike again. |
800km from Bamako, we find this trucker who loads the bike in the back. |
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It takes us (3) days to cover the 800km. The truck broke down halfway... |
...this is how the vehicle was hoisted (very scary)... |
...reattaching the springs and welding the rear shock. |
For detailed occurrence over the three (3) days see the Journal for June 01 to 03. |
On day 3 we stop on the side of the road to load some leaves in the back of the truck. |
The "motorcycle garage" in Bamako, Capital of Mali. |
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Motorcycles and parts scattered on the side of the road under a tree.
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But the amazing story is that the mechanic found the problem in 5 minutes. |
The relay had shorted out in one of the water crossings on the Timbuktu road. |
To top it all off two (2) used relays from the scrap yard were found.
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June 03 to 05, 2008. We stayed at Jean-Bakir and Marim Bertet's campsite in one of their beautiful bungalows. |
It was them who helped us find the mechanic. |
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The site is located at N12 36.145, W07 56.121 and set up for overlanders.
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The bathrooms are western style and clean. |
Here we had to take Mike to the clinic to get tested for Malaria, but luckily negative. Heat exhaustion was the verdict. |
June 06, 2008. We had no idea what this day had in store for us. To cross the river we had to use the train bridge. |
The main highway as shown on the GPS and map from Toukoto to Befoulabe... |
...we thought it was paved. |
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As the road continues to get worse, we question if we had missed a turn somewhere. |
We backtrack only to end up on another road leading nowhere...
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...night falls and we are forced to pitch a tent in the bush.
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June 07, 2008. Still looking for the main road we cover 400km of dirt single tracks... |
...every so often stopping to ask for directions... |
...in villages like this. |
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This person was super friendly and even spoke some English.
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It took us (4) hours to retrace our steps and all we saw were villages that consisted of straw huts (no electricity). |
Finally we make it back to a gravel road and notice a nail in the tire.
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At Diangounte-Kamara we finally hit pavement and the right road (400km & 10hrs of riding in the bush). |
Setting up camp on the roof top of the Auberge in Kayes. |
In the morning of June 08, 2008 we wake up to a new friend...
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...outside our tent the Scorpion. Mali a true adventure. |
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